Textile, Print, and Form: A Lifetime of Magical Experimentation

Zandra Rhodes: Textile, Print, and Form: A Lifetime of Magical Experimentations is the second in an ongoing series of exhibitions at CAM Raleigh that focus on fashion as art form. The exhibition explores four specific experimental techniques that this icon of British design has been reinventing over the course of nearly fifty years.

Everything about the work of Zandra Rhodes begins with the inspiration, research, and development of a printed textile. The formation of an entire garment will be led by the print, from concept sketches to more detailed drawings and layouts for the screen-printing process. This tireless and driven interest in prints has defined the silhouettes of garments as well as entire collections. The flow, direction, and layering of one or more prints create enticing visual stories that are a hallmark of Zandra’s work.

Multiple designs of layered, printed textiles and the addition of embroidery, beading, sequins, feathers, and appliqués have played a significant role in Zandra’s work. Simple prints evolve into defined and complex textural forms through varying levels of intentionally layered adornment. Stacks of printed and appliquéd flowers become a wearable garden. Layers of beads, crystals, and sequins form encrusted patterns that transform a delicate print into beautiful armor. Conscious visual surface activation has defined Zandra’s approach to design, entrusting every mark and element with a powerful purpose.

The cutting and slashing of fabric is inspired by an Elizabethan fashion trend of the 16th century. Zandra’s use of historic design elements emerged at a time when contemporary fashion was not interested in raw cut and slashed garments with exposed seams. The techniques were Elizabethan and the silhouettes were inspired by garments worn by native North Americans. Zandra’s design process continues to be defined by combining histories, cultures, and contemporary materials in alternative ways.

Inspired by 1970’s street culture and punk rock, Zandra’s ongoing interest in textile and surface manipulation continues in her current work. Holes are beautifully cut, draped and beaded. Jeweled safety pins and chains become intentional closures and methods of attachment. Materials and visual composition are never left to chance.

Credit: Exhibition overview from museum website